Back at The Lido, the world of fashion returned to Venice with the Venice Film Festival welcoming stars, directors and the cameras that stalk them. This year’s arrivals presented lots of looks that combined timeless glamour with lively new ideas. From the early film debutantes to the later session time film showings, wooden planks and velvet barriers showcased a broad selection of measured gowns, rugged suits and surprising elements, busying photographers and overflowing social media feeds. The city of Venice has traditionally been very giving to clothing that photographs beautifully with water, ancient faades and a gentle evening sun.
And every stylist and designer must have scoured for inspiration in this setting. Intense jewel hues stood out against the sunset backdrop and glow of festival lights. Metallic fabrics glittered without looking too showy. Sculpted, elegant shapes were balanced by more theatrical volume all of which would work at the same event.
Several of the actresses selected sculptural dresses that fluttered in the breeze off of the lagoon. The fabric grazed the air just so, lending a natural flow to almost every shot. A few, chose sleek columns that defined demeanor and composure, allowing for jewelry or a large statement sleeve to be the show stopping feature. The men were there with sharp tailoring and energy, some timeless in a black tuxedo, others introducing color in velvet jacket or even in their choice of shirt that still was appropriate for the setting.
What kept it from feeling stale was the diversity of individual voices. Some stars flirted with sweet, nearly nostalgic touches that threw back to the city’s ageless allure. Other stars dared to experiment with slick futuristic textures and sharp geometric shapes that contrasted sharply with the historic backdrop.
It never became a jumble of designs. Rather it was a confident dialogue among designers, with each bold look established on its own. Accessories also rarely caught the eye but contrasted subtly. Statement earrings highlighted faces under close-up stadium cameras. Light necklaces subtly juxtaposed bare shoulders but didn’t draw eyes away from titillating neckline. A handful of serious bags and spacecraft footwear provided finishing touches to looks carefully planned in every detail. The hair and makeup crews kept all but a handful of faces pretty and natural so the clothes and the backdrop could share the fame. The carpet itself felt like a familiar cocktail of anxiousness and exultation.
The film stars stopped dutifully for the long lens, turned languidly to take in the full 360, and flashed quick hellos to those they hadn’t seen since the last big festival. The publicists kept everything moving while the fans and spectators fought to be as close to the barrier as possible with phone cameras raised. The lagoon and distant glow of Venice itself provided a uncanny surroundings. Fashion critics were noting that the most successful outfits combined high aspiration with minimal barriers to wearability.
The most opulent dresses were still possible to walk, sit and chat in without any difficulty or embarrassment. It has become something of a discreet signature of Venice renditions, in the past few years. It needs the ultimate achievement of any festival ensemble; clothing that can survive the day’s rigors, while still managing to be insouciant in the key final images.
